Tin ceilings originated in the mid 19th century so the middle class could have decorative ceilings, mimicking the fancy plaster ceilings popular among European high society. I’ve not heard this said but I imagine they also had a more prosaic function as an inexpensive and permanent way to hide crumbling plaster ceilings. I’ve thought this is why they’re so often found in old stores with high, inaccessible ceilings. The metal also serves as a fire stop between floors.

Their popularity peaked around 1900 and they were virtually nonexistent by about 1920. Today, tin ceilings are back in fashion again. However real ones are hard to find and can be quite expensive. There are some modern versions, but they’re usually made of thinner steel (and (gasp) plastic!), have shallower, simpler designs, and are often made overseas. It’s a personal opinion, but modern tin ceilings lack credibility, the same way a plastic Victorian fireplace mantel does.

Buffalo ReUse has recently reclaimed two authentic tin ceilings. The first set has six by six inch repeating flower pattern on 1½ by 3 foot panels (a rare size). There are 20 panels (160 sq ft). These panels are in good condition with minimal rust and few holes, and importantly, the lapping edges are intact. They do have many coats of paint obscuring the detail.

The second set has an intricate two by two foot pattern set in single two by two foot tiles. The pattern is a deeply recessed (~1/2-1 inch) octagon with a floral design in the middle. The octagon is edged with a Greek Key motif and embellished on the corners with fleur-de-lis–like designs. There are 20 panels (80 sq ft). Their condition is variable. Some are rusted through. There is some denting and bending and of course many coats of paint.

I’m not just a spokesman – I’m a customer. I have rescued an old tin ceiling and installed it in my kitchen, and here are a few ideas/advice on how tin ceilings can be fixed and reused.

Removing paint

Most tin ceilings are covered with lead-based paint and the strippers are caustic and toxic so take proper precautions when doing stripping yourself. This means heavy gloves, heavy long-sleeved shirts and long pants, goggles and a good respirator or mask. Work in a well-ventilated area and don’t allow pets or children to hang around.

I recommend heavy-duty marine grade stripper. Schuele Paint is a good source (and friend of Buffalo ReUse). “Eco friendly” stuff just doesn’t work here. Slather the panel (or a section) with stripper, cover with plastic (a plastic bag) and press it into the stripper. This prevents evaporation and increases effectiveness. Wait 30 minutes to 1 hour and scrape it off. Use any tool that works. Wipe off remaining stripper with mineral spirits. Collect and triple bag all waste and dispose of in your household trash. Afterward remove remaining paint with a 3M ScotchBrite wheel fitted to an electric drill.

Alternatively I highly recommend a professional paint stripper. I had my cornice moldings stripped at Buffalo Refinishing Services on Elmwood Avenue near Great Arrow (or call 716-874-4638). They do it safely, in an environmentally sound manner, and very reasonably priced. And no sanding afterwards.

Don’t leave bare metal

Plan your stripping so you can prime or lacquer as soon as possible. The panels will rust and you’ll have to steel wool or sand to clean them off.

Bends and dents

This takes a little creativity. Some dents and dings are the “character” you’re looking for. You’ll see hammer marks near nail holes from the original installers. No sense removing these. I recommend consulting an old auto body manual for tips. The imperfection that really needs to be fixed are damage that keeps the edges from lapping. Edges can be straightened slightly using sheet metal seamers (big flat faced pliers), pliers, Channel Locks, and ViseGrips. Larger, uglier dents can be pulled out by using ViseGrips and pulling at 90 degrees from the fold so that it ‘unfolds’ itself. Again more art than science. Some internal dings and dents can be CAREFULLY hammered out using a wooden dowel, cold-steel masonry chisels, or metal punches. Careful not to punch through the metal!

If you don’t have enough pieces

Patterns can be mixed and matched (e.g. like a checkerboard). These can look very cool. Modern panels and trim can still be ordered with older lapping edges so that a hybrid ceiling can be created. This is something to be planned before you begin though, not decided while hanging panels.

Hanging it

Although furring strips were used to anchor the ceiling, I have found a great alternative that’s much easier. Mount low-grade (cheap) ¼” plywood on the ceiling as the backing substrate. Then use the traditional cone-head nails or use small screws to secure it in place. Start from the center of the room and mark out your pattern exactly. Then lap the pieces so the exposed edge is away from your most scenic spot.

Good luck!

—Ian Macdonald, Buffalo ReUse Volunteer